The Chill California Town I Come Back to Every Summer—And How to Spend a Weekend There
Living in San Francisco, Guerneville, a small town on the Russian River, is my go-to for summer fun in the sun.
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Come June, there are few places I’d rather be than Guerneville, California. Once Memorial Day hits, summer in this small riverside town is in full swing. Although it’s also lovely in other seasons, this is the time of year when it truly shines. Life revolves around the Russian River, which passes through town, with plenty of opportunities to swim, kayak, or sunbathe on the beach. Plus, a lively, LGBTQ+-friendly party scene and some excellent restaurants mean you’re sure to have a great time off the river as well.
So it’s probably no surprise that I keep coming back year after year. Over the past decade, I’ve gotten to know the town quite well—so much so that I even wrote about its food scene in a national magazine.
Here’s how to spend an idyllic summer weekend in Guerneville, California:
Short on time? Here’s a quick overview.
➛ If you can only do 3 things: Rent a canoe or kayak at Burke’s and paddle down the river; go for a hike in Armstrong redwoods; and spend an afternoon wine-tasting—I like nearby Hartford Family Winery.
➛ Can’t miss restaurants: Canoe to riverside Stumptown for beers. In town, get cocktails at El Barrio and dinner at Dawn Ranch or new wine bar, Trillium. Always save room for ice cream at Nimble & Finn’s.
➛ Where to stay: I love Stravand for romantic getaways; boon hotel + spa for an adults-only getaway with a great pool, or their stylish, new, sister property Highlands Resort. Right on the river, Dawn Ranch has fun adult, summer-camp vibes. Electric River is a new, riverside glamping retreat.
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Things to Do in Guerneville
If you’re visiting in the summer time, hanging out at the river is the main activity. There are a few ways to enjoy the river, plus some great activities for land-lubbers (or river folks who just need a little break).
Hang out at a beach
There are a few beaches where you can pop down a blanket and picnic, swim, and relax. Johnson’s Beach in downtown Guerneville is one of the most well-known and convenient (note: you have to pay to enter). If you’re just trying to float or kayak from here, though, you can access a small sliver of beach just west of the dam to get in the river and float/paddle.
Down the road in Monte Rio, Monte Rio Public Beach is another good option. It’s easy to access and free to enter. In the other direction, Steelhead Beach up by Burke’s Canoes is a smaller, more chill option. Parking can be difficult though, so it’s helpful to arrive early.
Float the Russian River
Another popular activity is to float the river. Grab some friends, inner tubes, and park a couple of cars strategically and start drifting down. Note that this river is slow, so I wouldn’t try to float more than ~1 mile or so.
Canoe or kayak
Prefer to leave the logistics to someone else? Rent a canoe or kayak at Burke’s and paddle down the river. You start 7.5 miles north of Guerneville and, once done, their team will shuttle you back to your car at their property. Along the way, it’s fun to park your boat at Stumptown Brewery and grab a beer. The deli next door, Farmhand, is a better choice for food.
Take a hike
One activity I love any time of the year is hiking in Armstrong Redwoods. Entrance to the park itself is free (unless you drive in) but you pay to park. It has a lovely, and accessible hike through the main area of the park, passing through groves of majestic redwoods. There are some trails that go deeper into the park, as well as a campground.
I actually skipped it my first one or two times visiting and I honestly have no idea why—I’d say it’s on par with more famous parks like Muir Woods but with a fraction of the crowds.
Go wine tasting
Guerneville is in the middle of the Russian River AVA, a really wonderful Californian wine growing region—especially for pinot noirs. If you love wine, make room to spend at least one afternoon wine-tasting—I like nearby Hartford Family Winery and Moshin Vineyards. Another one I’ve heard good things about is Gary Farrell Vineyards. All are close to each other and you could visit two in one day/afternoon.
In town, the wine shop attached to Nimble & Finns ice cream, The Guerneville Wine Collective has a great selection of bottles to go and Equality Vines has a welcoming tasting room.
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Restaurants + Watering Holes
Breakfast at Dawn Ranch
Guerneville itself isn’t big, so there aren’t a ton of restaurants, but there are enough (really good ones!) to keep you well fed for a weekend:
Breakfast
Piknik Town Market: Formerly Big Bottom Market, the rebranded-in-2023 cafe, Piknik Town Market is still a great stop for coffee, biscuits, and sandwiches to go on the river.
Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen: It’s a bit outside of town, but the quirky Lightwave Coffee and Kitchen, next to a skate park in Monte Rio is worth the detour. It’s a cafe/coffeeshop and they also have a small, Mediterranean-inspired. I love the “beach laffa,” a flatbread sandwich stuffed with eggplant, egg, and tahini, and their slushies.
Lunch
Road Trip: I’ll be honest, this restaurant opened last year and I’ve yet to try it, but I have my eye on the creative, globally-inspired menu at Road Trip by locally famous chef, Chef Crista. It’s open for both dinner and lunch.
Guerneville Taco Truck: I kid you not, the taco truck in the Safeway parking lot is a solid spot for a quick lunch in town.
Dinner
Dawn Ranch: The restaurant at Dawn Ranch is one of my top picks. Try to grab a table on their large terrace surrounded by redwoods, or time your dinner with one of their weekly live music shows. If they have shrimp on the menu, definitely order it.
Boon Eat + Drink: Boon Eat + Drink is a classic spot in town, especially for a nicer dining experience. Expect farm fresh Californian fare in a cozy atmosphere.
Trillium: New-ish wine bar Trillium is right in the downtown strip. They have food ranging from small bites, like tinned fish, to larger plates like a New England-style crab role.
Nimble & Finn’s: Always save room for ice cream at Nimble & Finn’s. You can fight me on this but I think it’s some of the best ice cream in all of Northern California. Well-made, with a selection of classic flavors and creative ones, like lavender and earl grey.
Watering holes + after dinner
Stumptown
Stumptown: The food is mediocre but I still love canoeing to riverside Stumptown for beers. It’s more about the location and vibe than anything else, and it’s often busy and vibrant on the weekends.
El Barrio: In town, cocktails and queso dip at El Barrio is a must. They mostly focus on mezcal and tequila drinks and it’s worth venturing beyond the tried-and-true marg here. The Pepino, a refreshing cucumber concoction, is one of my faves. Pro tip: there’s a tiny patio out in the back that’s great on a nice day.
Rainbow Cattle Company: LGBTQ-friendly dive bar and self-described “good time saloon”, Rainbow Cattle Company, is a scene and probably the best place to go if you’re looking for a late night.
Outside of town
Nearby Forestville also has some good food options: Sonoma Pizza Co. for pizzas and pasta; Canneti Roadhouse for Italian fare; Bazaar Sonoma (BaSo) for Asian-inspired fare. I like stopping for lunch here before or after a wine tasting at Hartford.
On the way out of town, I love making a detour for brunch at Willow Wood in nearby Graton. There’s often a wait, but it’s well worth it for the fun vibes, giant mugs of coffee, french toast, or plate of eggs.
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Where to Stay: Guerneville Hotels
If you’re traveling with a group, chances are you’ll want to book a vacation rental. It’s worth it to try and get one right on the river. Those often book out months in advance, but it’s still worth taking a look. I’ve gotten lucky on non-holiday weekends before.
However, Guerneville also has a lot of really great hotels—some of which are still fun with a big group. I always prefer to stay close to town (walking distance is great). Some of my favorite hotels in Guerneville include:
Dawn Ranch
This sprawling resort has adult summer camp vibes and is right on the river. It also has one of the best restaurants in town. Because of the space and amenities, I think it’s great for larger groups who want their own space and traveling with kids. Dawn Ranch also has a spa on-site, located in the former owner’s quarters.
boon hotel + spa
This hotel, and the folks who run it, are a big reason why Guerneville is even on the map. It’s also the first place I ever stayed here, years ago, and I still love it—even if it’s ~1 mile outside of town. They do have loaner bikes available for a quick ride in but you also wouldn’t be faulted for wanting to just relax and chill around their adults-only pool area all day. Some rooms have fire places, there are glamping tents open in the summer, and all stays include a delcious, delivered-to-your-room breakfast.
Highlands Resort
Highlands Resort is the cute, new sister property located in a historic 1920s lodge just a few blocks from Main Street. Choose from a cabin, room, or glamping tent. Dog friendly.
Stavrand
This beautiful little bed and breakfast is the best options for a romantic getaway. I love Stavrand’s beautifully designed rooms, all in a lovingly restored historic building, the peaceful pool area, and outdoor spaces on property. Some rooms come with a fireplace—perfect for cooler evenings—and all stays come with breakfast. If you stay here, it’s worth booking a chef’s dinner menu for at least one evening of your stay.
AutoCamp Russian River
Glamp in a retro Airstream trailer at one of the original AutoCamps. The brand’s original location in Santa Barbara closed a little while back but this one, which was the second one to open, is still up and running in a lovely redwood grove.
River Electric
River Electric is one of the newest hotels to open in Guerneville, having just opened its doors over Memorial Day weekend. It’s a glamping resort and swim club is right on the river and with in walking distance to town. As the swim club concept suggests, it also has a fun pool area and for those of you who don’t want to spend the night, no sweat, they have day passes too.
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Packing Tips
Bring water shoes (I tested Teva’s new water sandals on this last trip to Guerneville and they were perfect), plenty of sunscreen, small cooler, and a flotation device of your choice. Don’t worry: if you forget one, you can pick up a cheap inner tube in one of a couple general stores on Main Street.
If you’re planning for a beach day, a portable chair or beach blanket (I love the ones Rumpl makes) is great to bring as well.
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Guerneville 3-Day Travel Itinerary
Prefer your recs in an easy to follow, day-by-day itinerary? Here’s a sample itinerary for a long weekend in Paso Robles.
Day 1 | Friday | Drive to Guerneville
Depending on traffic, it’s an easy(ish) 1.5-2 hour drive up from The Bay. Head out after work or a bit earlier in the afternoon and play to arrive in time for dinner.
After checking in to your hotel, make a b-line for Main Street for a mini food crawl. Start things off with a pre-dinner drink at El Barrio (it closes at 9pm, so better to swing by on the early side). Then, grab dinner at Road Trip or Trillium. Finish things off with a cone from Nimble & Finns (open until 10pm on Fridays/Saturdays).
If you’re able to leave earlier in the day and get to Guerneville by 3-ish, toss in a hike at Armstrong Woods before you spend the evening eating and drinking.
Day 2 | Saturday | River Day
River day! Get up early and have breakfast, grab some sandwiches from Piknik, and make a break for the river on the early side (ideally before 10am). Choose your own adventure from here: post up at Steelhead Beach, rent a canoe at Burkes, or find a spot to pop your inner tube in the river and start floating. Either way, plan to be out here for a few hours and eat lunch on the river.
If you chose to paddle with Burke’s canoes, make a stop at Stumptown before you reach the end of your trip and head back to the car.
After a full day in the sun, you’ll probably be a bit tuckered out. Plan to have an early dinner at Dawn Ranch out under the redwoods. I also wouldn’t fault you if you end the night (again) with Nimble & Finns.
Day 3 | Sunday | Explore the area
Take your time heading back to the city today. Start things off with coffee and breakfast at Lightwave, then double back for a hike in Armstrong Redwoods. After, swing by Hartford for a mid-day wine tasting and lunch at Sonoma Pizza Co. or BaSo in Forestville.
