California’s Cowgirl Cool Wine Region: A Travel Guide to Santa Ynez Valley
The Santa Ynez Valley is home to creative small wine producers, fun retro hotels, and some really, really good food + shopping. Here’s a curated travel guide to the region.
Like most San Franciscans, I usually default to Sonoma or Napa for a wine-filled weekend getaway. But Angelenos have long known there’s another valley worth the drive: a rural, still-a-bit-cowgirl stretch just outside Santa Barbara with high quality wines—just with a little more edge, creativity, and freedom.
Since Sideways put the Santa Ynez Valley on the map, its reputation has only grown. Today you’ll find Michelin-starred dining, personality-filled hotels (hello, Skyview Motel), and a community of winemakers, chefs, and artists shaping a scene that feels both high quality and laid-back.
On my recent getaway, I absolutely fell in love with this valley (I may or may not already be plotting a trip back!). Here’s how to spend your own trip to the Santa Ynez Valley and all its cute small towns, from can’t miss restaurants and things to do to what hotels are worth booking.
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Short on time? Here’s a quick overview.
➛ If you can only do 3 things:
Go winetasting (Clementine Carter + Lumen + Presqu’ile are faves)
Explore the small shops in Santa Ynez and Los Alamos
Take a horseback riding tour with Vino Vaqueros
➛ Can’t miss restaurants:
Bar Le Côte (Los Olivos)
Bell’s (Los Alamos)
Highway Tacos (Santa Ynez)
The Victor (Santa Ynez)
Priedite Barbecue (Los Alamos)
➛ Where to stay:
Skyview Motel (Los Alamos) for pool vibes + great views.
The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern (Los Olivos) for a super luxe stay.
The Genevieve Hotel (Santa Ynez) for food-and-wine centric B&B in a mansion.
In this article:
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Towns of Santa Ynez Valley
The valley has several charming, small towns — each with its own personality. Best yet, all of these small towns are a 10-20 minute drive away from each other, making it easy to visit a few during your time here. Here’s a rough breakdown:
Map of Santa Ynez Valley
Santa Ynez: The dusty little cowgirl-and-cowboy town of the bunch, Santa Ynez is full of western charm. Think: shops selling boots and hats, an old-timey saloon, and even a ranchero or two—all alongside several great restaurants and a lovely boutique hotel.
Los Olivos: The bougie one of the bunch, this tiny town has 40+ tasting rooms into just four blocks. It’s also home to the region’s first “diamond” hotel, Inn at Mattei’s Tavern, which set a new bar for luxury stays in the valley.
Los Alamos: What was once a one-saloon-and-tumbleweed town now has two funky remodeled motels and a creative mix of restaurants, shops, and tasting room. It’s less polished than Los Olivos, but we love it for that.
Solvang: If there’s a town in the valley you’ve heard of, it’s Solvang. Known for its Danish architecture, pastry shops, and yes, kitschy vibe, it can be a little touristy but fun.
Buellton: Industrial Buellton is the workhorse of the region, home to much of the valley’s wine production. But don’t skip it: there are some detour-worthy spots here, from the Hitching Post II (yes, the Sideways one) to lively breweries.
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Things to Do in Santa Ynez Valley
Los Alamos
Santa Ynez
It’s easy to spend your whole trip eating and wine tasting, but if you want to mix in an activity (or just need a palate break), here are a few favorites:
Olive oil tasting at Global Gardens (Santa Ynez): If you’ve never done an olive oil tasting, this is your chance. We joined Global Gardens for a morning tasting base don a friend’s recommendation and were surprised by how fun it was. California is a major producer of olives, including what Global Gardens produces, each with their own personality.
Horseback riding with Vino Vaqueros: This area has long been home to rancheros and while you won’t be wrangling any cows on this tour, it’s still a great way to ride through vineyards and experience the area. We didn’t get a chance to go on this tour but Vino Vaqueros came highly recommended.
Nojoqui Falls Trail Hike (Santa Ynez): For something more active, take this hike on a short, shady trail that leads to a seasonal waterfall. Best to go earlier in the morning.
Mendenhall Museum (Buellton): Swing by this quirky stop packed with vintage gas pumps, neon signs, and race cars.
Santa Ynez Valley Botanic Garden (Buellton): A small but peaceful space showcasing native plants and wildflowers.
Explore the small towns of Santa Ynez Valley: Each town in the valley has its own personality, from Western-chic Santa Ynez to up-and-coming Los Alamos, and one of the best things to do is simply wander around each one.
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Where to Eat: Restaurants, Bakeries, and More
Friday burgers + brisket tacos at Priedite BBQ
From Michelin-starred fine dining to roadside tacos, the Valley has no shortage of great food—in fact, it’s a major reason to visit. Though we certainly tried, we weren’t able to hit all the restaurants and eateries on our list but here are the restaurants and bars I’d recommend trying while in the area.
Of all the places we ate at, Bar le Côte, Highway Tacos, and Priedite BBQ were our three favorite meals.
We also loved the apps + drink menu + friendly service at The Victor, Michelin-starred Bell’s was fun (but I’d still choose BLC over it if I had to pick just one fancy dinner), and Pico had stellar wines (it’s owned by the same folks behind Lumen wines, and the wine alone is reason to eat there—plus the pork chop 😉). Locals we spoke to couldn’t stop raving about Santa Ynez Kitchen, though we got sidetracked by Highway Tacos on our one chance to eat there and have zero regrets.
Santa Ynez
Highway Tacos – I’m not exaggerating when I say this was hands down the best taco I’ve ever had in California. Fluffy corn tortillas? How?!? So good.
The Victor – Elevated but unfussy California cuisine. The bar is also a great spot for cocktails and snacks. We had amazing service when we were there and even caught their Wine Wednesday deal (50% off bottles).
S.Y. Kitchen – Locals love this restaurant with fresh pasta and wood-fired dishes in a cozy farmhouse setting.
Queen Cup Coffee – Great little inclusive coffee shop with killer breakfast burritos. Loved the vibes here.
Dos Carlitos – Good sit-down Mexican spot with a solid happy hour. Service here was super friendly too.
Brothers Restaurant at the Red Barn – Again, didn’t get a chance to eat here but popped our head in. Old school, white-table-clothed restaurant best known for their steaks. There’s also a bar with full service if you’re feeling a bit more casual.
Los Olivos
Bar Le Côte
Bar Le Côte
Bar Le Côte – A buzzy seafood restaurant from the team behind Bell’s. This spot was tied with those tacos for the best meal we had on our trip. The bar is the most fun place to sit and don’t skip the uni, caught by local Santa Barbara diver, Stephanie (IYKYK). Save room for dessert, the chef’s take on an old school pudding pack is super fun.
Los Alamos
Bell’s – A Michelin-starred French bistro in the heart of downtown. The quality here lays in the ingredients—yes one of our favorite dishes was a uni and caviar topped crepe, but so was the simple lettuce salad.
Pico – Creative, local-driven plates in a historic space. It’s also home to Lumen wine’s tasting room (more on that below) and one of the OG nice restaurants in town. Get the pork chop if it’s on the menu.
Full of Life Flatbread – Beloved for wood-fired pizzas topped with seasonal ingredients. We didn’t make it there, but multiple people recommended it.
Bob’s Well Bread – Cult-favorite bakery (the kouign-amann is a local fave) and your best bet for breakfast in town.
Priedite Barbecue (at Bodega Los Alamos) – This weekend-only Central Coast barbecue started as a pop-up behind Bell’s and now has a permanent spot at Bodega down the street. They’ve upped production so they don’t run out of meat like they used to, so rest easy and grab a beer if you spot a line. Also: don’t sleep on the sides. The beans and coleslaw were great.
Norman – attached to SkyView Motel and named for a cheeky reference to Bate’s Motel, this restaurant is a vibey scene. It’s worth having brunch here (served on Saturdays and Sundays) or joining for evening drinks and views of the hills below. If you’re staying at Skyview, take your brunch and lounge by the pool.
Buellton
We didn’t make it to Buellton at all but a good friend who lives there shared these recs with us:
Na Na Thai – Authentic Thai street food flavors in an unexpected setting.
Hitching Post 2 – The Sideways steakhouse, still serving oak-grilled meats and strong pours.
Industrial Eats – Creative small plates, wood-fired pizzas, and a true locals’ hangout.
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Where to Drink: Wineries, Tasting Rooms, & A Saloon or Two
The greater Santa Ynez Valley (also referred to as the Santa Barbara wine region given its proximity to the town) is home to a handful of California’s most interesting AVAs, including the Santa Ynez, Santa Rita Hill, and Santa Maria Valley AVAs. This makes the area a perfect place for a weekend of wine tastings. You’ll find the greatest concentration of tasting rooms in Los Olivos, though I’d absolutely say it’s worth going out of your way for Lumen or Clementine Carter wines. There are also some beautiful tasting rooms out in the vineyards, like Presqu’il, so it’s worth booking at least one tasting among the vines.
Santa Ynez
Artiste Winery – As the name suggests, this winery with a tasting room right in town has an art theme. Every vintage has a unique label painted by a local artist. And if you’re feeling creative, you can literally paint while tasting here.
Maverick Saloon – It’s kitschy, it’s divey, the ceiling is covered in dollar bills, and that’s what we love about it. Swung by for a whiskey nightcap and a couple of yarns from the bartender and it was worth it for the vibes alone.
Los Olivos
Stolpman Vineyards Tasting Room – Bold Rhône varietals and cult-favorite reds in the heart of town. Love the outdoor patio and it had a buzzy vibe.
Dragonette Cellars — Didn’t get a chance to try the Rhône- and Bordeaux-style wines but it was mentioned several times by some of the Somms we spoke to in the area.
Brewer-Clifton — Known for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and other cool-climate expressions. Winemaker Greg Brewer also happens to be married to Sonja from Clementine Carter.
A few Somms also recommended Taste of Santa Rita Hills as a place to get to taste a few smaller wineries without dedicated tasting rooms and Story of Soil for tasting rooms in town.
Los Alamos & Nearby
Clementine Carter – Female-owned label focused on Rhône wines. At their tasting room in Los Alamos, you can also find wines from The Feminist Party, a sister label to Clementine Carter, with playful, approachable blends.
Lumen Wines – Minimal-intervention wines that really let Santa Barbara fruit shine. Their tasting room is in downtown Los Alamos at Pico Restaurant. The wines are farmed and made by Will Henry (alongside Vic Rodriguez as of 2023) using regenerative and organic practices. Will’s wife, Kali, also plays a big role: she runs the kitchen at Pico, tying the food and wine sides together.
Bodega Los Alamos – Part tasting room, part hangout — grab a glass with wood-fired pizza or BBQ. Also has a cute little shop in the front of the space.
Presqu’ile Winery (Santa Maria) – A modern hilltop estate with sweeping vineyard views and a mid-century modern tasting room, this would be my top choice for a tasting among the grapes.
Buellton
Full disclosure: we weren’t able to make it to any of the spots on my list in Buellton, but if you’re in the area, here are some notable places to drink:
Vega Vineyard & Farm – Working farm and winery, great for families and groups.
Hitching Post Wines – The Sideways legend, still pouring Pinot and more.
Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. – Local brewery with a laid-back vibe.
Industrial Way Tasting Rooms – A cluster of small, independent producers all on one street, including Buscador Wine, Tierra y Vino, Imagine Wine, Esfuerzo Wines, Roark Wine Co., Amber Rose Winery, Kalyra Winery, and Tomi Cellars.
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Where to Stay: Santa Ynez Valley Hotels
Skyview Los Alamos
Skyview Los Alamos
Solvang has the most options for hotels, but it’s worth venturing out into some of the less established tourist areas and make Los Alamos, Los Olivos, or Santa Ynez your base for your trip. That said, if you’re struggling to find hotel availability at any of these, you’re still in a good location in Solvang. None of the places in this guide are more than 30 mins away from each other.
Skyview Los Alamos (Los Alamos)
Just off the highway and perched above town, this motel was totally rennovated and transformed into a boutique stay complete with restaurant, pool, and a garden with firepits and shady places to sit. Although, yes, I could see the highway from my private back porch, I couldn’t hear a thing in the room and had a great sleep while here. The retro-chic details and old motel sign add to the playful, road-trip vibes.
The Genevieve (Santa Ynez)
Right in the heart of Santa Ynez, I first thought The Genevieve (formerly Santa Ynez Inn) was a historic mansion — given the design and ornate details of its architecture. But it’s actually a newer building made to feel that way, which is part of the fun. Still, it’s tastefully designed, not overly fussy, and the beds were super comfortable. I also loved the back patio and in-room fireplace, nightly happy hours and dessert hours, outdoor fire pits, and friendly staff. One fun detail? They have a little knob that allows you to play the hotel’s lobby music in your room and continue the vibes.
The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern (Los Olivos)
I have yet to stay here, but at my day job at Afar, this chic, luxury property was all our California editors could talk about for a minute, even landing it on Afar’s best new hotel list in 2024. The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern has long been a landmark in Los Olivos, but Auberge’s refresh transformed it into a luxury escape. Expect serene cottages, stylish decor, and one of the best restaurants in the valley. Pricey but worth it.
Hotel Ynez (Between Santa Ynez & Solvang)
We didn’t stay here, but this remodeled motel is by the same hotel group as Skyview, Nomada, and is a design-forward, boutique stay tucked between Solvang and Santa Ynez. It has chic details that feel welcoming and calming, complete with fire pits, hammocks, pool, and outdoor tubs. Plus, it’s pretty affordable. The only con is that you’re not right in one of the small towns, but it’s still just a short drive away from it all.
The Landsby (Solvang)
Easily the chicest spot in Solvang, The Landsby blends modern, Scandinavian-inspired design with that cozy, small-town energy in each of their 41 rooms. The on-site bar and restaurant, Mad & Vin, serves California classics and has a solid happy hour. I was very close to booking this hotel, based on its reviews, style, and affordability.
Sideways Inn (Buellton)
Yes, that Sideways Inn! Although not as chic or stylish as the others, it’s a fun and affordable option, especially if you’re a fan of the movie. Sideways Inn offers updated rooms within walking distance from the brewery and a short drive to both Los Olivos and Santa Ynez. To be totally honest, it wouldn’t be my first choice but I do sometimes like staying/visiting filming locations and this fits the bill.
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Santa Ynez Valley 4-Day Travel Itinerary
Prefer your recs in an easy to follow, day-by-day itinerary? Here’s a sample itinerary for a long weekend in the Santa Ynez Valley.
Day 1 | Thursday | Drive to Santa Ynez
No matter where you’re coming from, you’ll be rolling into town by car. Aim to arrive as early as you can so you can check into the grand Hotel Genevieve. After a long drive, you’ll be relieved to know dinner is just a short walk away. Either saddle up to the bar for cocktails at the hotel’s restaurant, The Victor, followed by dinner there, or mosey on to Santa Ynez Kitchen or Brother’s Restaurant just a few blocks away. If you still have energy after all that eating and drinking, swing by Maverick Saloon — even if just for a quick whiskey on the rocks and a few tall tales from the bartender.
Day 2 | Friday | Mosey On to Los Alamos
Start the morning slow with breakfast at your hotel, then spend some time exploring downtown Santa Ynez — think Western gear shops and local art. Before leaving town, do lunch + tasting or tasting + lunch with stop by Artiste Winery for a tasting. Under no circumstances should you leave without tacos from Highway Tacos. They might just be the best in California.
In the afternoon, head north to Los Olivos. Pop into a few shops like Wendy Foster Los Olivos and Global Eye Shop & Gallery. If you’re planning to eat at Bar Le Côte, linger until dinner before continuing on to your hotel in Los Alamos to save yourself the drive back—don’t worry, there are plenty of places to linger and spend a few hours. Otherwise, check in first, enjoy a glass of wine while watching the sunset from Skyview’s perch, and then grab dinner at Bell’s or Pico just down the street.
Day 3 | Saturday | Horseback Riding + Pool Day
Start your morning with coffee and something from the local farmer’s market, then head out for a horseback ride with Vino Vaqueros before the day heats up. Come back for lunch at Bodega Los Alamos and a tasting at Clementine Carter, then spend your afternoon lounging by the pool. If you haven’t made it yet, head to Los Olivos for dinner at Bar Le Côte. Otherwise, book it to Bell’s, Pico, or Full of Life Flatbreads.
Day 4 | Sunday | Brunch + Departure
Enjoy a slow morning and brunch at your hotel before heading out. If you’ve got time to spare, sneak in one last stop or activity before you go. If you’re heading south towards LA or Santa Barbara, stretch your legs with a short hike at Nojoqui Falls. Other good options are lunch at Priedite Barbecue or a final tasting at the stunning hilltop Presqu'ile Winery.
