The Perfect Weekend Getaway in Tomales Bay, California
The boat shack at Nick's Cove (pictured here) burned down in 2023, but the team is working on rebuilding it.
Before I moved to San Francisco over 10 years ago, I had never heard of the Point Reyes National Seashore or Tomales Bay. But thanks to the delicious, fresh oysters, beautiful hikes, fun bike rides, and scenic water to kayak in, it quickly became one of my favorite places to go to get out of the city. Although most people will just visit as a day trip from San Francisco or elsewhere in the Bay, I think it’s worth spending a night or two and turning it into a weekend getaway. In fact: before I owned a car, Jon and I would often bike up here for overnight trips. After exploring the area for over 10 years, here’s how I’d spend a perfect weekend in Tomales Bay and Point Reyes.
Short on time? Here’s a quick overview.
Sample weekend itinerary in Tomales Bay / Point Reyes
Friday: Happy hour at Inverness Park Tap Room then dinner at Saltwater Oyster Depot in Inverness.
Saturday: Visit the area’s highlights: Point Reyes Lighthouse, Cypress Tree Tunnel, and a short hike on Tomales Point. After: lunch at The Farmer’s Wife, soft serve ice cream at Palace Market, and wander Point Reyes Station. Early dinner at Tony’s in Marshall. In the fall, follow it with a nighttime, bioluminescence kayak paddle.
Sunday: Make this your leisurely food day: lunch at the Marshall Store, tasting at Heidrun Meadery, then stock up on goodies while driving home: Tomales Bay Oyster Co. for oysters; cheese and fermented food at West Marin Culture Shop; and produce from Little Wing Farm Stand.
Where to stay in Point Reyes / Tomales Bay
Olema House: This is the best situated hotel for exploring both the Inverness and Marshall side, since you’re right near Point Reyes Station, where the road splits to go around each side of the Bay.
The Lodge at Marconi: is a new, beautifully refurbished lodge in Marshall with a fun on-site bar and restaurant.
Nick’s Cove: is also newly renovated set of cabins right on the water, but further north on the Marshall side.
Vacation rental: Vacation rentals aren’t always cheaper than hotels, but still a good option here. Book on the Inverness side if you’re prioritizing outdoor adventures; Marshall if you’re more interested in food.
Day 1: Drive north and get fresh seafood for dinner
Try to leave the city by 3pm to give yourself enough time to check-in and grab an early dinner at Saltwater Oyster Depot. This area goes to bed early, so don’t expect much to be open past 8 p.m. If you arrive early enough, here are a few activities to do before dinner:
Explore the shops in Point Reyes Station. I especially love Visions.
Get happy hour with the locals at Inverness Park Tap Room, a low-key bar in Inverness.
Hike the Tomales Bay (trailhead) or Bolinas Ridge Trail (trailhead). Both are fairly close to town and allow some flexibility to make your hike as long, or as short, as you want.
Evening: dinner at Saltwater Oyster Depot
Ever since the (very sad) closing of Sir and Star at the Olema, Saltwater Oyster Depot has taken over as the best option for a more upscale, romantic meal in the Point Reyes / Tomales Bay area. It’s only one of two restaurants in Inverness, but with food so good you won’t be disappointed that it’s essentially your only option for dinner on this side of the Bay. Sidle up to the bar, order a bottle of wine, and warm up from the fog with dishes like rabbit cassoulet, seafood chowder, or a full grilled fish. They also serve breakfast and lunch, but I’d suggest making a reservation for dinner so you can enjoy some great food and a leisurely evening on your first night in the area.
Day 2: Explore Point Reyes National Seashore
Dedicate your one full day in the area to visiting the area’s highlights. Most of these are clustered on the western side of the bay (which is a bit of a drive if you’re staying in Marshall—plan accordingly) in the Point Reyes National Seashore. So long as you get an early-ish start (say, 8 or 9am), you should have time to see quite a bit before lunch. I’d start with:
Hiking to the Point Reyes Lighthouse
Take a short hike on Tomales Point
Drive to the Cypress Tree Tunnel for a photo op
If you want to take your time, or take a longer hike, I’d recommend stopping by Inverness Park Delicatessen on your way up to grab a to go lunch for the day. This little grocery store is one of the best places to grab coffee, snacks, and a to-go sandwich for your adventures.
Otherwise, plan to make it back to Point Reyes Station for lunch and nosh on the area’s other delicacy: cheese. You’ll find plenty of cheeses to sample at the old Cowgirl Barn, which houses a few different businesses such as The Farmer’s Wife, a lovely place for creative, organic sandwiches, and West Marin Culture Shop, which is where you can stock up on cheese, and other fun fermented foods (miso, anyone?). Just save room for some soft serve ice cream at Palace Market (yes, the grocery store!)
Evening: Bioluminescence kayak paddle
If you’re in the area between August and November, an evening bioluminescence kayaking tour is a must. This rare natural phenomenon is one of the most glittering and beautiful ways to see Tomales Bay. Blue Waters Kayaking runs tours several times per week, and also rents kayaks if you prefer to DIY it. If you go with them, their 3-hour tours depart around 5:30-6:30pm in the evening from Miller Park Boat Launch near Nick’s Cove. Plan to grab a bite to eat before or after your tour at Nick’s Cove, which has an excellent selection of California seafood dishes, with a New England twist (think: Dungeness crabs alongside lobster rolls, depending on the season). On Saturdays, their restaurant is open until 9pm — things close early in these parts — so I’d err on the side of caution and eat an early dinner or grab a few items to go for later.
Day 3: Leisurely Food Day
Take your time getting up and making your way back to the city, and dedicate your last day in the area to hopping around all of the area’s best food spots—especially those you may have missed so far. Sleep in, have a leisurely breakfast (maybe pop out for a morning paddle or hike, if you’re feeling so inclined?) then check out of your hotel.
One place you definitely should not miss while you’re here is The Marshall Store. While Hog Island might be the most popular and well-known place (it is undeniably good), I always prefer the more low-key vibes at Marshall. Plus: it has some great tri tip sandwiches and other options for anyone in your crew who is seafood adverse. Make this your lunch spot, then wind your way back to the city with stops for:
A mead tasting at Heidrun Meadery, a local meadery right outside of Point Reyes Station.
Be sure to pack a cooler so you can grab a couple dozen of oysters to bring home at Tomales Bay Oyster Co.
Stop by the Cowgirl barn in Point Reyes Station so you can taste and buy cheese and fermented food at West Marin Culture Shop.
Finally, keep an eye out for Little Wing Farm Stand on the road out of town. It can be hit or miss but worth a stop to see what kind of produce is in stock—especially since it’s barely a detour at all.
Where to eat and drink in Point Reyes / Tomales Bay
The Marshall Store
Just want a list of places to eat? Here are my favorites — all of which are also saved in this Google Map list:
The Marshall Store: My absolute favorite eatery in the area. Great oysters and smoked fish. Get the Dungeness if they’re in season. Also surprisingly great tri-tip sandwiches and beef jerky.
Saltwater Oyster Depot: A more upscale, sit-down eatery with excellent seafood and an impressive wine list. Open for lunch and dinner.
Hog Island Oyster: This locally famous oyster farm is one of the most popular joints in the area. Get a reservation if you’re coming on the weekend.
Tomales Bay Oysters: Is generally less expensive, but also a no-frills, nothing-but-oysters pitstop. Just bring your shucker, because you’ll have to open your own. You can also take them to the lawn at Lodge at Marconi (it’s public, state park land) for a picnic.
Tony’s: Also owned by Hog Island, and has a similar menu to their outpost in San Francisco. Which is fine by me: it’s all fresh, delicious, and the views of the bay are beautiful.
Inverness Park Delicatessen and Tap Room: The grocery side is one of the best places to grab a quick coffee or sandwich, either for there or to-go. Attached is a tap room where you can sit and have snacks and beers in the afternoon.
Side Street Kitchen: Cute little spot in town, known for their roast chicken. If you happen to be in town on a Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday morning, swing by for breakfast and order the hot apple fritters.
The Farmer’s Wife: Pricey but generously portioned and always delicious sandwiches in the old Cow Girl Barn.
Heidrun Meadery: Small, locally owned meadery worth stopping by if you like mead. There’s not much in the way of wineries or breweries in this area, and this is the closest thing if you’re craving that kind of experience.
Palace Market: Locals know, the best ice cream is hidden in Point Reyes Station’s local grocery shop, Palace Market. Ask and pay for a cone at the register, then go grab your order at the dairy counter.
Not gonna lie, even though there’s usually a line at Bovine Bakery, I think it’s just OK.
Where to stay in Point Reyes / Tomales Bay
Whether you’re on a budget or ready to splurge, there’s are lots of accommodation options in Point Reyes. In addition to Airbnb and Hipcamp, below are our favorite places to stay in Point Reyes:
Olema House - $300+ per night
Olema House is a luxurious, modern hotel and one of the best accommodation options in the area. As the name suggests, it’s located in the tiny “town” of Olema (which is barely more than a few buildings), just near the entrance to Point Reyes National Seashore. It’s a popular spot for cyclists to stop and refill on water, but also a charming and comfortable hotel with a large, bucolic lawn for lounging after a hard days’ ride. With an onsite restaurant and bar, you won’t need to worry about cycling into town for dinner after dark, though Point Reyes Station is only a quick, 2.5-mile bike ride away should you want the option.
The Lodge at Marconi
The Lodge at Marconi has a storied history. It started as a trans-Pacific radio communications station for the Marconi Wireless Telegraph Company in the early 1900s and over the years has been a corporate conference center, rehab center, and historic state park. In 2023, though, they completed renovations of several historic buildings, transforming it into a boutique lodge and hotel on the grounds of Marconi Conference Center State Park. The retro design and Sea Ranch-esque architecture of the rooms were delightful but it was the 62 acres of meadows, wildflowers, bay views, and eucalyptus groves that really won me over. Evenings wind down early in this area, but fortunately the Lodge has a communal firepit (and s’more kits for sale) and an on-site restaurant and bar—perfect for a happy hour, dinner, or a nightcap.
Nick’s Cove
Nick’s Cove got its start as a herring smokehouse and curing facility in the 1930s but today is a charming waterfront hotel and restaurant towards the north end of Tomales Bay. The boutique hotel has five unique, cozy cottages, each of which have been recently renovated. They’re a bit of a splurge, but super comfortable and design-forward. Whether you book a room here or not, don’t miss a chance to eat at the restaurant. Celebrity chef Chris Cosentino joined in 2023, updating the menu to draw from both the rich natural bounty of Tomales Bay and his New England roots. Expect dishes like fresh oysters, crab louie salad, and one of the best lobster rolls west of the Mississippi. Thanks to its location, Nick’s Cove is best for those who mostly want to hang out on the Marshall side of the bay, kayak, and perhaps pop into Point Reyes Station.
Camping in Samuel P Taylor State Park - $35 per night ($7 for bike campers)
Samuel P Taylor State Park is one of the most popular campsites outside of San Francisco, nestled in a cool redwood grove alongside a creek. While car camping sites book up far in advance, the hiker/biker campsites are first come first serve (no need to reserve) and cost about $7 per bike per night. It’s still another 8 or so miles to Point Reyes Station, but this is by far the best campground in the area, and an excellent option for last minute bikepacking trips. Sky Campground is another, closer option but does not offer first come first serve for hiker/bikers. Both campgrounds require reservations for car campers.
HI Hostel Point Reyes - $35 per night for a dorm bed
Hosteling International USA has a hostel in the Point Reyes National Seashore with both dorm bed and private room options. It’s homey, full of books, and off the grid. They also give a small discount to cyclists. Just make sure you have food for the night before arriving—it’s more remote than the other options.
