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I hate skiing. I’ve never snowboarded. And yet, we’re heading back to Niseko, Japan—a premiere ski destination in Hokkaido—this winter. Jon’s there for the powder, but what’s drawing me back? Well, one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed in, snow crabs, onsen (tattoos be damned), soba noodles, snowshoeing, and a very fun aprés ski scene (you can fight me on this, but I’ll take ramen over raclette after a cold day outside any time.) ➛ Things to do: Ski or snowboard (of course); soak in onsen; go snowshoeing. On your rest day, rent a car and take a day trip to nearby Otaru (small coastal town) or see the sulfuric hot springs at Noboribetsu. ➛ Eat, eat, eat: Get a soba noodles and tempura lunch at Teuchi-Soba Ichimura; make at least one dinner shabu shabu at Kobe Tei (winters only), and try famous Hokkaido ice cream and dairy at Takahashi. ➛ Aprés-ski: Take shots and dance on tables at the rowdy, American-style Freddies or cozy up with a craft beer at Niseko Taproom. For a very Japanese après-ski: take an evening soak in an onsen at Goshiki onsen; eat soba noodles at Rakuichi (advance reservations required); and try Japanese whisky flights at Bar Gyu+, dubbed “the fridge bar” for its refrigerator door entrance (only open in winters). ➛ Where to stay: Kimamaya by Odin is one of my favorite hotels. Period. Not only is it a beautiful property, but the Japanese breakfasts (included) are delicious, there’s an on-site onsen, and the staff go above and beyond with their hospitality. Book well in advance for the winter season. However, they have a 5-night minimum and if that doesn’t work for your schedule, Setsu Niseko is a great option as well.
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