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Recently, I told the internet that traveling to Japan and just visiting Tokyo, Kyoto, Fuji, and Osaka was a mistake. And I stand by it. Those places are wonderful, but most people will only see these popular spots but none of the other unique (and less crowded) parts of the country. During our last visit, we made a last-minute decision to trade in our weekend in Osaka for an overnight on Naoshima, one of Japan’s “art islands”, and it ended up being an unexpected highlight. The island was once home to thriving salt and fishing industries but when it fell in decline in 1980s, the Benesse Corporation and renowned architect Tadao Ando started the “Benesse Art Site Naoshima” project to transform it into the artistic enclave it is today. 2025 will be one of the more exciting years to visit, thanks to the Art Setouchi Triennale, an art festival that only happens every 3 years. Additional artworks and exhibits are on display during this time—both on Naoshima and other nearby islands. ➛ Things to do: Explore the Art House Project in Honmura village, visit the Chichu Art museum, and bike around the island to discover art installations among the nature, like Yayoi Kusama’s famous pumpkins. ➛ Eat, eat, eat: Go to Cafe Salon Nakaoku for omelette rice, grab a cozy vegan lunch at Aisunao, and make a dinner reservation at Terrace Restaurant at Benesse House. ➛ Where to stay: We stayed at Benesse, an actual museum with stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea. Equally worth considering is Naoshima Ryokan Roka, a new, modern Ryokan with kaiseki dinners and on-site hot springs. For something more affordable, try Sana Mane a mid-range glamping retreat with some pretty unique structures. ➛ Plan your trip: Bookmark the Naoshima Travel Guide, download my Naoshima Google Map list, get a JR pass, and start booking.
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